I made a Master Chief Helmet from Halo a couple of years back for a space girl shoot. I didn't really finish it to a high standard, just painted it up with all the facets still in place. Seemed to look OK to me, however I liked the Pepakura system so I decided to look around for a Predator Bio helmet design and I found this PEP file You will need the Pepakura Designer software which can be used for free with limitations. You can get the software I downloaded the PDO PEP files, then had to re-arrange it because I am using A4 card for mine and the PEP is set up for Letter. No big deal, just shuffle the bits around.

Star Wars Papercraft: Life Size Yoda. But did you extract the Pepakura.pdo files from the.rar file first? Pepakura can't open.rar files.

I did find a different PEP file set up for A4 AFTER I had finished this, so I may decide to build that as well later. Step 1 Print, cut out and assemble. After you have downloaded the PEP file, use Pepakura to print it out onto card stock. I use standard card for this, it available at any good stationers or office supplies retailer.

It's basically greeting card thickness, quoted in Europe as 180gsm, I don't know the US equivalent. I used yellow card since that's what I had in stock.

This PEP came out at 8 pages. I began with the crown and worked my way downwards carefully cutting out the sections and gluing them together with general purpose glue. Very fiddly, and time consuming. It took me two evenings of solid work to produce the card model. Some bits didn't seem to have quite the right contours compared to the movie stills I was using as a reference. The jowls seemed too flared out.

I eventually put a strip of masking tape across the back to. Bobby digital presents northstar rar. • • • • The card structure does not have enough strength on it's own for any meaningful use. So the next step is to coat the card structure with resin. I use car body repair resin for this. I gave the mask two coats on both the inside and the outside. This strengthens the card enormously and allows the heavier treatment it will get later.

Make sure that the card is well covered in resin. You should see the resin 'soak' into the card making it translucent, this is exactly what we want. The card will become an integral part of the resin and make it almost unbreakable. Once this had all cured fully, I removed the masking tape support strip from the rear and began the process of adding Fibreglass to the inside.

I used one layer of tissue matt followed by one layer of coarse matt. That should be enough to make a really strong mask. I then used a Dremel to sand and clean up all the edges, remove any sharp bits from the inside, then cut out the eyes. At this stage the mask is totally stable and very tough. It can be left for years before any further work is done, and should last for a very long time.

Step 3 Sculpting. • • • • Once the fibreglass has fully cured and the mask is rock hard, it's time to iron out all the facets and make any corrections to the original sculpt. It's obvious that the laser sighting system(s) are missing and will be added in later. Also a good look over the movie original stills shows that the lower jowls are the wrong shape.